How to put an old TV broadcast zoom on your mirrorless camera, and get a 20x zoom at f/1.8 for the price of a kit lens.
TV news cameras use lenses with a B4 mount, built for small 2/3" sensors. Stations replace them all the time, so used ones pile up on eBay for a fraction of what they cost new. With the right adapter they fit Sony E-mount bodies like the A7 series, FX3, FX30 and A6000 series. Adapters also exist for Canon RF, Nikon Z, L-mount and Micro Four Thirds.
You get huge reach, a zoom that stays in focus as you zoom, smooth motorized zoom on many units, and a vintage look with soft flares and rich color. No modern photo lens offers that range at f/1.8.
The lens is cheap. The full working rig costs $550 to $800. Know these five things before you buy.
There's no autofocus. Zoom and iris can be manual or motorized.
On a full-frame body you'll shoot in APS-C crop mode, or add a glass adapter to fill the whole frame.
A lens support on rods is mandatory. Without it you can bend your camera's mount.
Softer at the extremes, more flare, less contrast than modern glass. That's the look people buy them for.
Many listings are "as-is". Buying from abroad can add 20% or more in import fees.
Every lens name is a spec sheet. Learn to read it and you can judge a listing in seconds.
Decides how much of your sensor the lens can cover. Only buy 2/3".
20x from 8.5 mm means 8.5–170 mm.
An I or IE on Canon, an E on Fujinon (BERM, BERD). A K means none. It's a lever marked 1x/2x on the lens.
R is motorized zoom, S is motorized iris. M/A switches let you run both by hand with no power.
Canon J-series and Fujinon A-series. The largest image circle, the best documented, and the easiest to adapt.
They look like bargains, but their image circle is too small for a mirrorless sensor.
Also skip remote lenses: codes with PX, or a boxy unit with cables instead of a handgrip. They're built for robotic camera heads. Canon and Fujinon made over 90% of these lenses; Angenieux and Nikon versions work the same but are rare and rarely cheap.
The sweet spot is a standard-definition Canon J/YJ or Fujinon A lens with a built-in 2x extender, at about $400 to $700. I paid $399 for mine. Without the extender they cost a bit less. HD versions (HJ, KJ, HA, XA) start around $1,000.
| Lens | Range | Built-in 2x | Asking price |
|---|---|---|---|
| With extender: pair with a pass-through adapter | |||
| Canon J16ax8B IRS Mine | 8–128 mm, 16x | Yes | $399 paid |
| Fujinon A18x7.6BERM | 7.6–137 mm, 18x | Yes | ~$600 |
| Canon J22ex7.6B4 WRSD | 7.6–168 mm, 22x | Yes | ~$600 |
| Fujinon A18x7.6BDERM | 7.6–137 mm, 18x | Yes | ~$650 |
| Fujinon A20x8.6BERM | 8.6–172 mm, 20x | Yes | ~$700 |
| Canon YJ12x6.5B4 IRS | 6.5–78 mm, 12x | Yes | ~$700 |
| Fujinon A17x7.8BDERM | 7.8–133 mm, 17x | Yes | ~$720 |
| No extender: pair with a glass 2x adapter | |||
| Canon J15x9.5B KRS | 9.5–143 mm, 15x | No | ~$300 |
| Fujinon A20x8.6BRM | 8.6–172 mm, 20x | No | $300–400 |
| Canon YJ18x9B / YJ19x9B | 9–171 mm, 18–19x | No | $400–480 |
Asking prices on eBay.com, checked in early October 2026. Most sellers accept offers 10–20% lower. "For parts" listings go for $150–250, but they're a gamble.
The rule is simple: you need one 2x to fill an APS-C crop, and two to fill a full frame. That 2x can come from the lens's built-in extender or from a glass adapter.
I shoot a Canon J16ax8B IRS on a full-frame body with a simple pass-through adapter (no glass). I turn on the lens's 2x extender and set the camera to APS-C / Super35 crop, and the lens covers about 95% of the frame with very good quality. A 1.1x punch-in, in camera or in the edit, removes the last bit of corner shading. I like that slight vignette, so I usually keep it. It's the cheapest setup, it adds no extra glass between the lens and the sensor, and for most people it's the best choice.
Most Sony bodies still record 4K in APS-C crop, so a 1.1x punch-in leaves plenty of resolution.
Rectangle: full-frame sensor. Dashed: APS-C / Super35 crop. Yellow: what the lens projects, roughly to scale. A lens without an extender plus a glass 2x adapter lands in the same place as the middle panel.
| Adapter | What it does | Best for | Approx. price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pass-through Recommended | Just a mount, no glass | Lenses with a 2x extender, shot in APS-C crop | $35–100 |
| Glass 2x | Doubles the image circle | Lenses without an extender (APS-C crop), or full frame without crop | ~$200 |
| Corrected 2x (7 elements) | Same, with sharper corners | Full frame, better quality | ~$300 |
| Pro optical 2.6x–3.6x | Clean full-frame coverage | Outside this budget | $2,400+ |
Go for a glass adapter only if you need the full frame. Each extra glass element costs some light and sharpness, and the lens's own extender is better glass than a cheap adapter.
Plan $100 to $250 on top of the lens and adapter for support and power.
The rods carry the lens weight through the support, so nothing hangs off the camera mount. Add B4 lens caps ($15–30): most used lenses arrive without them.
Power: the servo runs on 12V. I use a phone power bank that outputs 12V over USB-C. A plain USB-C cable only gives 5V, so you need a USB-C PD trigger cable set to 12V, ending in a DC 5.5×2.1 mm plug. A V-mount battery with a D-Tap cable ($90–150) also works and lasts longer.
My build is exactly what I paid. The other two use mid-range prices from this guide, before import fees.
Exactly what I paid, shipped to Spain from China. Lens with 2x extender on a pass-through adapter, APS-C crop mode, servo powered from a phone power bank with 12V output. Support, rods and power bank added about €120 more: see Shop my setup.
Found a good lens without a built-in 2x? The glass adapter supplies it. APS-C crop mode.
Fills the whole full-frame sensor, with motorized zoom. About $730 if you already own a power bank with 12V output.
These are the exact products and sellers I bought from. Prices are what I paid in August–September 2026.
eBay and AliExpress links go to the exact listing or seller. Amazon links open a search for the same product.
Ask the seller to hold the lens up to a bright light and look through it. Here's what they might see.
Thin threads like a spiderweb. Walk away.
A milky fog over the glass. Costly to clean.
Fine lines. Small ones on the front rarely show.
A few specks inside. Normal and harmless.
Assembly takes about 20 minutes. Back-focus is the step people skip, and then their zoom goes soft.
Set back-focus so the image stays sharp through the whole zoom.
With back-focus set, you can zoom during a shot and stay in focus. That's the real reason to own one of these.
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